Combining Ireland & Scotland

Why combine Scotland & Ireland?

Bound by a common Celtic heritage and long, often-troubled history with nearby England, Scotland and Ireland combine beautifully for a single trip. Their proximity and shared past mean that some cultural aspects run across borders, and I love comparing how each country differs and how they’re similar. A thematic trip is a great way to do this.

When you take a Scotland and Ireland trip, you might want to live like a laird and stay in castles, explore the wild landscapes, or sample the different ways that both countries approach their favorite tipple, whether they spell it whiskey or whisky. Additionally, North America’s tight ties with the region means that many visitors go intending to trace their roots and I can help you there, too, whether that means a personal consultation with a local genealogist or a deep dive into kilt making.

Here, I’ve balanced a bit of everything that I love about Scotland and Ireland, with both traditional touches and modern culture, history and landscapes, whiskey and whisky.

Dublin: pubs, sacred history & artistic tea

I start any combination of Scotland and Ireland in Dublin, for the simple, practical reason that you’ll find more direct flights to there than to Edinburgh. The city is also a great introduction to Ireland’s bon vivant pub scene and ideally placed for exploring the country’s long history.

Perhaps the best introduction to the capital is a whiskey sampling tour — not only do you get a quick tour of the city with your private driver-guide, you also get to explore the wide range of different spirits that Dublin has on tap. For me, the highlight of the trip is the stop at Pearse Lyons, a small, relatively new small-batch distillery inside a converted 18th-century stone church that’s tucked into the Liberties historic district.

The next day, I suggest a behind-the-scenes tour of Saint Patrick’s Cathedral. The spiritual core of the whole country, this patch of land has been considered sacred for 1,500 years and is thought to be where the namesake saint himself baptized local chieftains, making a tour here one of the most important ways to understand Ireland itself.

I can arrange for you to visit with one of the cathedral’s caretakers, known as vergers. He’ll show you the highlights, of course, including Jonathan Swift’s tomb, and show you around the cavernous nave. But then, he’ll pull out his keys and unlock doors not usually open to the public — you’ll climb a narrow set of stairs and come within touching distance of the enormous stained-glass windows, explore the bell tower, and even step out onto the roof for sweeping views of the city.

That evening, if you want to see the more secular side of Dublin, I’d opt for a musical pub crawl. While I’m happy to arrange a private tour, this is one of the rare times I like to suggest a small group instead — it feels like the most convivial way to explore. I know it’s never long before I’m singing rousing choruses alongside everyone else at the bar.

Where to stay: Dublin is home to a thriving art scene, which is why I love staying at the Merrion, a stylish hotel in the heart of the city. This houses one of the country’s largest private painting collections, which you can explore during a lavish afternoon tea, complete with treats inspired by the works around you.

Kinsale: whiskey, yachts & Barry

If the entire country of Ireland was embodied in a single person, I think that person might be Barry. Wearing a tweed scally cap and tailored vest, Barry seems to know every single person in Kinsale and greets them by name as he leads visitors on a walking tour through the town’s historic center. His raconteur style and boundless enthusiasm really help to bring the region’s history to vibrant life.

Barry’s tour is just one reason that the pretty coastal town of Kinsale makes an excellent base for exploring County Cork. It’s also home to some of the best restaurants and artisan crafts that I’ve found in Ireland — inspired by Barry’s style, I bought my own scally cap last time I visited.

From here, it’s less than an hour’s drive to Cobh, another historic waterfront town. Pronounced “cove”, Cobh is best known as the last port of call for many of the Irish who left the country in search of a better life, usually embarking from so-called Heartbreak Pier. It was also the last docking for the Titanic’s ill-fated voyage.

Whichever aspect of it draws your attention, I suggest a walking tour with Michael. A world-renowned historian and Titanic expert, he helped me really unpack the complexities of different waves of emigration that have left Ireland over the centuries. I don’t have roots here myself, but I watched other visitors stand on Heartbreak Pier and look out over the ocean, their eyes lost on a distant horizon.

Just 20 minutes from Cobh is Midleton, home to Jameson, the oldest and best-known Irish whiskey distillery. Though it was founded in Dublin, and I can certainly arrange a tour there if you like, I prefer visiting this more rural facility. Set in a big stone building with bright-red doors, this is where you can really see the whiskey being made.

You can take a behind-the-scenes tour, where you dig into the technical side of the whiskey-making process, including visiting nearby barley fields and talking to the coopers who still craft barrels by hand. You’ll finish the tour with a tasting of several whiskies and gins in their tap room.

Where to stay: For such a small town, Kinsale has a wide choice of hotels. Traditionalists might prefer the classic style and intimate feel of the Perryville House, a 200-year-old house that’s been converted to a snug stay. For something with a view, I like the Trident Hotel Kinsale, which sits right on the water.

County Kerry: landscapes, kayaking & ancient ruins

Wind-swept slopes, endless fields of green, dark lakes, striking ruins, plunging cliffs... For a taste of Ireland’s landscapes, there's no better place than County Kerry, home to the well-known Ring of Kerry, a popular scenic driving route. I can absolutely arrange a driving tour around its many sights, but it’s often crowded with visitors.

As an alternative, I suggest spending a day hiking through Killarney National Park. You'll be able to revel in the landscape on walks along the many tracks through the park’s ancient woodlands and Ireland’s tallest mountains.

For a different perspective on the region, I recommend an evening kayaking trip out into Kenmar Bay. As the sun gets low in the sky, you’ll follow your guide across the dark green waters against the backdrop of the mountains, weaving between small, wooded islands, the only sounds the small waves caused by the paddles against the hull.

Then, as darkness thickens, you can look up to admire the sky of stars and then, glance down to see the flickering lights in the water itself. Kenmare is home to bioluminescent plankton that flash and glow as you pass, outlining your passage in an eerie light. It’s my favorite thing to do in Ireland.

For more terrestrial adventures, you might want to delve into the ancient history of the Dingle Peninsula. Though it’s less well-known than the scenic Ring, I think the peninsula is even prettier, with velvety green hills dotted with sheep and criss-crossed by stone walls, not to mention wave-lashed beaches and pointed peaks.

This is also home to some of the country’s most compelling ruins, few of them open to the public. However, I can introduce you to Isabel, a qualified archaeologist who’s known in the region — she’ll take you to Neolithic standing stones, ancient wedge tombs, and striking beehive houses that litter the peninsula, explaining the science and history behind these enigmatic remains.

Where to stay: Built in the 1850s, Great Southern Killarney offers impeccable service and a secluded feel that’s still just a very short drive to Killarney National Park.

Adare Village: the Cliffs of Moher & rest & relaxation

As a restful coda to your Irish adventure, I suggest taking a few days to unwind in Adare, considered by some to be the prettiest village in Ireland. (I’ll let you draw your own conclusions.) If you do want to continue to explore, you’re just 90 minutes from the Cliffs of Moher, known for their precipitous plunge from grassy sward down to the crashing waves. I like to stroll along the clifftops — well away from the edge, of course — to take in the sweeping views of the undulating rock face and the lashing surf.

To explore the nearby Burren National Park, I recommend a picnic at a local farm. The park itself is a starkly beautiful landscape, paved with fractured karst stones that shelter a riot of wildflowers in season. You can explore in a 4x4, visiting a ring fort and a stone chapel, before heading to one of the farms that still thrive here. You’ll meet the livestock and hear about life on the land before sitting down for an alfresco lunch.

Where to stay: One of the country’s grandest houses, Adare Manor is an excellent choice for unwinding. The hotel offers a wide array of experiences that harken back to the Middle Ages, including falconry, archery, and horse riding, as well as more contemporary options like a spa and guided whiskey tastings.

Edinburgh: folklore, whisky & Dean Village

Scotland’s flinty capital Edinburgh is a great introduction to Scotland at large. From the imposing silhouette of the castle to the elegant Georgian townhouses of the New Town to the cosmopolitan restaurants, it’s a microcosm of the past and present. And a fantastic way to get to know the city is a guided tour based around whisky and folklore.

Having a storyteller guide enlivens the tour, introducing you to some of the characters who have walked these narrow streets, either in history or in story and song. Along the way, you’ll stop to have tastings from four different regions of the country, sampling whiskies and (if you like) learning why the drink is spelled differently in Scotland than elsewhere.

You can also explore a hidden corner of the city — Dean’s Village. This snug hamlet, tucked into a small valley just five minutes from Princes Street, seems lifted straight from the 17th century, when it was a popular locale for bakers and millers. (The tumbling Water of Leith powered grain mills for grinding wheat into flour.) An architecture expert can help unpack the history that’s build right into the cobblestones of the street.

Where to stay: The Balmoral is the New Town’s grandest dame, an opulent fin-de-siècle hotel with a soaring lobby, elegant decor, and a Michelin-starred restaurant. Or, if you prefer unabashed Gothic opulence, consider taking a room at the Witchery by the Castle, an extravagant, velvet-clad set of rooms tucked into the Old Town.

Argyle: Oban, castles & puffins

From the capital, I like to venture west to the wet and windy port town of Oban, which makes an excellent base for exploring the Argyle area and the coast. From here, it’s a relatively quick boat jaunt out to the islands of Iona and Staffa, to see some of the sea life that flourishes on their shores.

You’ll board a rigid inflatable boat with a cabin and strike out for open water. Along the way, you’ll learn more about the storied history of the islands, including Saint Columba’s 6th-century abbey and Fingal’s Cave, where you can see the same hexagonal basalt columns that Ireland’s Giant’s Causeway is known for. You’ll also glimpse the busy shoreside colonies where puffins come to nest in summers.

Argyle is known for its preponderance of castles, and there’s no better way to see them than with Rab. Bursting with character and fascinating historical facts and anecdotes, he’ll squire you around the region to the many different strongholds here, from the Dunadd hill fort, once the seat of the ancient kings of Dal Riata, to the lake-bound Castle Stalker, which you might know as the Castle of Arrrghhhh from Monty Python and the Holy Grail.

Where to stay: I recommend the water-view rooms at No. 17 The Promenade Hotel. The rooms are lovely, decorated with a bold hand, but what I love most is the sense that you’re practically floating on the blue-grey waters of the Sound of Mull.

Speyside: wool, more whiskey & wildlife

Named after the River Spey, Speyside is a remote pocket of northeast Scotland’s Highlands, where the rushing waters support some of the world’s most prestigious whisky distilleries. This is also home to one of the country’s oldest woolen mills.

You can experience the latter two features of Scottish culture in a single day with a guided tour to both Johnstons of Elgin and Glenlivet. Johnstons of Elgin is a 225-year-old producer of fine wool and cashmere, and on your visit, you’ll learn about the entire process from sheep to sweater. You’ll also get to visit with the company archivist to discover what has (and what hasn’t) changed over the centuries.

Then, your driver will take you to the Glenlivet Distillery, where you’ll get to explore the company’s specific process, and learn just why the Spey’s waters are so vital to the final product. Of course, your tour will be rounded out with a tasting (or three) of some of the different vintages.

For a taste of the wilder side of the country, you might visit Cairngorms National Park for hiking or cycling. However, I like my wilderness to come with a side of indulgence, so I prefer to explore the park at Rothiemurchus, a private estate tucked into the borders.

Here, you can tour with a ranger to unpack the natural history of the woodlands — the largest area of ancient Caledonian Scots pine forest left in the UK and home to a welter of wildlife. From the comfort of your 4x4, you might spot red squirrels, red deer, pine martens, or birds like crossbills and Western capercaillies, large ground birds with iridescent emerald throat feathers and a glorious fan of a tail.

Your tour ends in proper style at a bothy (a Highland word for a small traditional cottage), where you’ll tuck into an indulgent hot lunch or tea by the crackling fire. A fine way to round out your visit to Scotland.

Where to stay: Traditional tartans, richly patterned wallpaper, burnished leather, gleaming wood... The Fife Arms offers a stay with a dark Victorian flair in the heart of the park.