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Despite its location almost in the middle of Santorini and Milos, Folegandros has managed to avoid mass tourism and retain its authenticity. Much of the island is uninhabited and seems barren, a space where only goats and mules roam the land, however it has been inhabited for millennia.

Today there are just 400 locals who live here year-round, with this number doubling during the summer months. Islanders are very welcoming while retaining a laid-back nonchalant style. Everyone seems to know each other, and even just spending a few days here you’ll feel like you’ve been here for weeks.

Most of your time in Folegandros will be spent relaxing by the pool or exploring the islands beaches, most of which can only be reached by regular taxi boats or by hiking along one of the various hiking trails. In the evening people tend to spend their time sampling the restaurants, boutiques and bars which can be found the main town of Chora.

Looming over Chora is the church of St Panagea, the iconic church that is the most famous landmark on the island. Panagea, meaning Virgin Mary, is traditional whitewashed domed style that is often found in the Cycladic Islands and is open only in the evenings. At sunset many people will make the short but steep trek up the zig-zagging pathways to reach the top and be rewarded with the panoramic views across Folegandros and its nearby islands.

Back down in town the village has an upmarket, lively vibe, with jumbled paved alleyways, whitewashed buildings and a plethora of olive trees, bougainvillea and other fragrant flowers. Boutiques and restaurants spill out of the buildings onto the streets until late at night. The local dish metsata is fresh pasta with a choice of various meats is the pride of the island and is highly recommended alongside the fresh seafood that’s come straight of a fishing boat.

Just a 10-minute west of Chora lies Agali, the islands most accessible beach. The sheltered bay can often offer some respite from the strong winds that can sometimes batter the island throughout the year. Agali is the only beach on the island that can be reached by car and is the starting point for taxi boats to other beaches, as well as the short hike to Agios Nikolaos beach. In both Agali and Agios Nikolaos there are just are a couple of restaurants to choose from that offer simple Greek dishes using some of the freshest seafood that can be found on the island.

To protect the rugged nature of Folegandros, none of the beaches have sunbeds or parasols for rental but these are available for purchase in Chora.

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Map of Folegandros

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